Saturday, December 30, 2006

News Briefs

12/27/06

Wow. A month without journaling. Not just a lack of updating the blog, but no journaling whatsoever. My head might explode from the pressure. For now what I think I’ll do is limit it to a number of short-ish news briefs to catch you up on what has been going on here, random tidbits, etc. and then later I will spend some time really taking care of my thoughts and feelings. Maybe when I take vacation in January I can just sit on the beach and write…Okay, so here goes, in no particular order:

  • My CEJ counterpart Paulo confessed his love for me about a month ago, just as I had dreaded since day one. I don’t care to repeat all of what he said, but suffice it to say that the words “passion” and “physical” were used more than once. As well as the phrase “even though I have a wife…” Welcome to Cape Verdean culture. Apparently I’m supposed to suck it up and, while repeating a firm “No”, deal with him eyeing me daily and making every possible attempt to win his way into my pants one sickening caress of the arm at a time. Fat chance, Guido. N ka gosta.
  • Zelda is still at the Center and on different medication that makes her loopy and talkative, yet for the most part calmer and not so much suicidal. I took her and the other girls who stayed in the Center for Christmas to my house to make banana bread on Christmas Eve. It was all I could do to keep her in the house and not running all over town, but hopefully she had an alright time.
  • A surprising 29-ish girls were able to spend Christmas with either their families, friends of the Center, or Ivete and other employees, so only 9 girls had to stay at the Center and spend it alone. I was worried they would be really sad knowing they couldn’t be with their families, that their families don’t exist, or that no one specifically invited them to stay on Christmas day, but it turns out they had several visitors and had a good time with each other and the mães. So much better than last year, when apparently some families that arranged to take in some of the girls for the holidays rejected them to their faces, saying they only wanted the cute littler ones. Anyway, most were able to have a home to stay in, which has made it pretty quiet around the Center lately. Much more easily manageable, if not slightly eerie.
  • I just had my 23rd birthday last Friday, and it turns out another PCV has the same birthday, so we had a joint party in Praia, and she invited a ton of Cape Verdean friends—we had a blast! One of the best birthdays I’ve had in awhile. There was dancing, eating, and general merriness, not to mention gorgeous Cape Verdeans. These next two years are going to be trouble…;)
  • Christmas day I went to São Domingos with the banana bread the girls and I made and spent the day with my host family and all our neighbors. I don’t know, my first Christmas away from family and out of the country was a little weird. It just didn’t feel like Christmas. Very anticlimactic. They all celebrate it, it’s a Catholic country, and they generally make a big lunch or dinner, but it’s not quite the big deal we make it in the States. Which is both excellent and a little sad. There’s no heavy-duty consumerism, frantic shoppers, overcrowded malls, cheesy Santas everywhere, worries about buying everyone’s presents, “Grandma got run over by a reindeer”, and blinking lights that are due to give one an epileptic seizure. Yet there’s also no wonderful scent of pine trees beautifully decorated in your living room, no Frank Sinatra singing classic Christmas carols, nothing even closely resembling snow, no hot cocoa in front of a fire with your family, no waking up Christmas morning and making strawberry and whipped cream pancakes and bacon, and no Paige, Lindsey, Mom, and Dad. The last part’s the hardest.
  • Christmas evening we had all the PCVs on the island who could come and had no family to visit over for dinner at our house. We decorated with a few lights, bought some cheap Cape Verdean white wine, and enjoyed each other’s presence. It was simple, brief, and nice. I got to talk to my family later that evening, which made it all worthwhile. The next day we slept in, made a big brunch, and laid around watching Sin City, like true Americans. Raise your hand if you thought the Peace Corps would be full of watching DVDs on a laptop…No one? Me neither.
  • A couple weeks before Christmas all the CEJ youth volunteers went to the beach for a day of relaxing to celebrate a year of work in the community. We had a nice time, all together, talking and listening to loud Angolan music no one really understands but puts on repeat five times in a row. We were set to depart at 7:30 and actually left at 10—so the usual. Once we got there everyone lingered around on the beach, not really daring to go in. I asked why no one was getting in, though I partially assumed the answer already, and they responded “We don’t know how to swim.” It wasn’t the first time I’d heard this in Cape Verde, but the more people I asked the more I realized: no one in Cape Verde learns how to swim as a child. And they live on an island. Surrounded by water. I find it fascinating, or at least a little weird. Maybe those who live directly on the beach have a little more knowledge of how to make their way around the water, but these 20-year-olds had no clue. The minute they found out I taught swimming lessons in the States, they excitedly begged me to teach them. It was hilarious watching all these pseudo-adults flailing around in the water, trying so hard, yet so scared of drowning. When you’re used to teaching 2-7 year olds it’s a pretty funny sight. They kept freaking out and clinging onto my neck. So I guess no Cape Verdean summer Olympics contestant for any swimming event.
  • In T-minus 7 days, Mel and I will be leaving to bask in the warm sun of our vacation in Sal and Boavista—I absolutely can’t wait. It will be brief but glorious, and then we get to come back to In-Service Training the next day where all the PCVs will be together in Tarrafal, so we’ll get to do a ton of catching up! I’m so giddily ready to see everyone, share war stories, and just enjoy each other’s presence. And be at the beach for a week!
  • After almost 3 months of service, my CEJ counterparts and I tried to finally sit down and officially define my role at the center—how I’m perceived, exactly what I’ll be doing, etc. It went a lot better in my head than in reality. I hate that feeling that people you’re trying to work with on something are more interested in what they have to say than in how you are going to fit in or your perspective on things. It basically felt like they were wanting me to just come in and be another worker-slash-volunteer that comes in and does a few activities for a couple years, then goes on her way. The trophy white foreigner they can bring around to events and meetings to say they have international help. Which in their reality maybe is true, but I was hoping that the things I end up doing there would be the type to continue beyond my service. The whole point is to do things that are relevant for them in a way that they will want to carry it on in the future, things that don’t require my presence. Instead, they got really excited about wanting me to come teach English. I told them I have no problem helping with that, but I don’t want it to be the priority of my presence there. When I leave, who will be “the English teacher”? Is that weird? Maybe I should just suck it up and do whatever it is they tell me to do or seem to need me to do, after all I’m supposed to be open and flexible, here to serve. But sometimes it just seems like their perspective is so limited, just thinking about a small group of people, rather than the huge things they can accomplish using that small group as a start. Every time I press for things or insert my opinion, I get this machismo response of “whoa, down girl” and expressions of shock that the little blonde girl might actually have an opinion or want to accomplish something. Like it just couldn’t be possible. I always feel this attitude with them that they get impatient working with a girl, whose sole purpose in being there is supposed to be flirting and looking good. But I guess that’s just something I’ll have to overcome during my time here, not let it overshadow what needs to be done. And my task really will be to see what the youth want to do, what the kids involved actually need and are willing to be involved in. Not the two guys in charge of it all. So that will be my goal.
  • As for what I’ve been working on at all three of my jobs and what I’m signed up to do in the next two years, here’s a list of projects/programs/activities:
    • Behavioral evaluation of the girls at the Center (that huge chart I was telling you about is underway and in the process of working out the kinks)
    • I am official fundraiser for the Center, organizing any efforts to bring in funds for projects and necessities, including grant-writing, asking for donations, and general fundraising events
    • I am also official coordinator of all outside excursions, field trips, and exchanges that take place with the girls of the Center—they’re hoping to do big trips once or twice a month and a little one every week
    • I am working on starting a small library in each of the ICCA (previously ICM) Centers, which involves book collection, asking for donations, fundraising, etc. etc. etc. and will then start a program to promote reading in the Centers, which currently doesn’t exist—no one here reads for pleasure…or for school for that matter
    • I will be starting English classes at both Centers (here and in Picos) for the high school kids who have English, and I will probably be starting English classes at the CEJ as well
    • I will soon be starting work on a large-scale (hopefully) photography project that will tie in with my thesis project, where the girls at the Center and maybe even girls from the CEJ will be given cameras, training, and a particular objective related to critical consciousness, leadership, and changing your community; this will then eventually turn into a wide-scale exposition with the intent of opening people’s eyes to the needs of girls in our community, and the ability of youth to express their voice through photographs
    • I hope to organize by next summer a Peace Corps project called Camp GLOW which is a leadership camp for girls; I haven’t decided how large this camp will be, but it will go beyond the girls from the Center to include the whole island, hopefully spreading the trend to eventually involve other islands
    • I’m trying to get CEJ youth and youth from the high schools to start a tutoring and/or mentoring program for younger kids in the community who need role models and/or help with studies. It started with a focus on the kids from the ICCA Centers (of course), but will hopefully extend to the SOS (other local orphanage started by a foreign NGO that I talked about a long time ago) and other local children
    • I want to start a girls’ group at the CEJ, as if I needed any more activities specifically related to girls
    • I and another Volunteer are creating a life-sized game for youth that centers around life skills, critical thinking, and Cape Verdean culture that can be played with various different populations within the country and can be boxed up and easily transportable
    • I might possibly be helping with an inter-island soccer tournament that is being started by another Volunteer, gathering a team for Santa Catarina and helping that to get kicked off. We’ll see how much time is available for this…

So that’s all the current larger projects, not including all the day-to-day craziness that makes up a part of my three jobs—aren’t you all jealous? I have my doubts that all of this can be done, but I’m sure going to try. And after all, the whole goal is to truly do very little, to get members of the community invested enough to do it on their own, so that they’re learning how and are more likely to continue it in the future. The problem then is motivating Cape Verdeans

12/28/06

Today is one of those days. Those days when you question everything about yourself and just generally feel blue. I sit here and think about what makes me think I’m qualified to do much of anything. It’s one of those times when everything I see and experience make me question everything I’ve learned and think I can offer, wondering if any of it is true or worthwhile. And I’ve been down this road before—you all know it, I’m sure I wrote about the same thing not too long ago. But it’s back. That nagging feeling that nothing I do is right or really helping anyone. Looking at the massive list of things I’m involved or getting involved in I wonder if any of it will go the way it looks in my head, or if it will all fall to pieces, or if it was wrong to plan any of this in the first place. It’s so frustrating trying to get people to help you with anything—most of the time they either want you to do it for them or try and pawn it off on someone else, if they even care enough to want it done in the first place. It’s not a fair assessment of Cape Verdeans in general, but damn it’s hard to motivate anyone. And that’s my job—youth mobilizer. And I can’t even do it! I can’t seem to get people excited about things or coming up with ideas of their own. They’re not used to thinking critically for themselves or trying to problem solve, or even coming up with creative new ideas for anything. They sing the same 5 damn songs without thinking of coming up with anything new. They play one card game and one outdoor game, refusing to learn new ones. And maybe that should be okay: maybe I should let it go and leave them to their one of everything and assume they’re happy that way. But then why am I here? Sometimes everything is just so vastly different it’s hard to wrap your brain around it. Not only is the language different and so frustrating, as you continue to make huge mistakes and can’t articulate yourself to save a life, but the mentality is just completely foreign. Yeah, I know, welcome to an entirely different culture in an entirely different country with an entirely different history. I knew it was coming, and everything’s clearly explainable to me, but being here it’s just different. I can say I knew it all beforehand, but it’s just different. There’s so much pressure from the development world to accomplish, to do something, to create something, to make a visible difference, to understand it all. And a big part of me just wants to play anthropologist, to watch people, to understand the culture, where it all came from. But being in a country that’s just starting the development boom where everything changes, all new things are coming in, the world is starting to open up (globalization-wise) and all very quickly, there’s just too much pressure for movement. No time to sit back and let the history seep in, no time to appreciate where it came from or worry about what should and shouldn’t be done or changed or “improved”. It’s all too fast for me, and my moral compass is going crazy, shouting cautions that are overshadowed by the development mantra, the “bigger, better, faster”, the presumptions of what is needed and what they should want. The conflict is about to make my head explode, and God I just want to be. Just be. Just sit and breathe in who I am, let the warmth of where I’m at wash over me, without pressure, without forward motion, just there. With me. In me. Around me. And I know that some of this judgment, this pressure, comes from within me, the need to be a certain way, the inability to make mistakes, the incomprehension of fallibility. The funny thing is I was just at the point where I was happy, completely happy with myself. I knew my goals and dreams, I knew what I believed, what I wanted, had so many possibilities. Why does doubt come so fast, and where does it come from? Like a freight train, blindsiding you until you don’t know which way is up. So someone show me the way, what is the answer? Just tell me there is some point when it all makes sense. Clarity. And right now I want Emily here. You always made things clear for me, no apologies, everything just simple and happy. You allowed me to be. And I miss you desperately. I bet you never realized how much one little school year could have made a world of difference to me. Just tell me there’s a tiny corner in your heart for me and I’ll be okay. Just breathe. Breathe…

Thursday, December 07, 2006

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blog photos, originally uploaded by courtdog88.

This is from a birthday party we had at the end of the month for all the girls who had birthdays during the month of October. Such sweet smiling faces:)

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blog photos, originally uploaded by courtdog88.

How can you not love these faces?

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blog photos, originally uploaded by courtdog88.

This one's my favorite. This really is the life!

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blog photos, originally uploaded by courtdog88.

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blog photos, originally uploaded by courtdog88.

We took some of the girls on a short hike (I wrote about it earlier), and we had a great time!

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blog photos, originally uploaded by courtdog88.

This is a picture of Zelda, and the younger girls is Simone. This is how I like to think of her, in the moments when she's content.

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blog photos, originally uploaded by courtdog88.

There's always dancing going on in the Center, this is their favorite one to choreograph, "Assim como a costa"...somehow I haven't gotten sick of seeing it yet.

How to save a life


Check out my darlings and the AIDS ribbons we made--not as fancy as what you can buy elsewhere, but I think from scratch is more fun, and they liked doing it:) So for a quick update on AIDS day since I have but a few minutes to write: We had a silent march through Assomada and since everyone was hemming and hawing (sp?) on the AIDS ribbons and getting them ready, we took it into our own hands, and made about 150, and of course when people saw them, everyone wanted one and I had dozens of hands in my face to be given these homemade pieces of red cloth. So next year I assume they'll actually want to organize the ribbon-making--sometimes you just have to do it and later people will see. Anyway, I took all the girls and their ribbons and as many white-ish t-shirts as we could gather and we met the others for the parade. Then Lauro, the filthy perverted Brazilian (I'll explain later) in charge of AIDS in Assomada decided he wanted the girls from the Center to lead the parade, to walk in front of everyone and be set apart. Well, imagine the looks on the faces of 20-ish young girls who have never been told they were special for anything good in their lives. They were elated. "Us?!" Yes, you. And so we paraded proudly through Assomada and ended in the plaza, where a small stage was set up for Lauro to talk about AIDS and invite people to come share music, poetry, whatever they wanted. So I nudged the girls and told them they should do the dance they are always choreographing in the Center, and so they eagerly jumped onstage and it felt like it was "AIDS day slash girls-from-the-Center day". I was beaming. Of course after that about 75% of the activities that were planned for the afternoon were cancelled due to people not showing up or falling through at the last minute, true to Cape Verde style. But it's par for the course. Next year I'll know what to look out for and how to make sure everything's organized better. So much for thinking my CEJ had it under control.

I wanted to write a lot more, more personal, more what I'm feeling, and more what's happening with the people around me, but I need to sit down and do that when I have more time, not when I'm in the PC office hungry and ready for lunch. So I'll just try and post more pictures.